words & pictures: time away

i've just been away with family and friends. i was able to surf some great point waves while away and although they were all rights with just a short and sneaky left, it was very enjoyable.

i surfed with Frank one morning and rode an old Egan longboard from about 1966. it does not have the original fin and there is this huge black one in its place that always draws a comment. one guy saw it the other day and called it the widowmaker. the Egan was so much fun to ride and Frank and i were having a ball trying to link the sections together and make some long rides that we usually could not even imagine.

Trent and Andrew also came up fo a few days and we all surfed a couple of afternoon sessions together.

one morning Trent and i went out at a long point break and took out the Dales. mine is already shown in a previous post and we had both loved this board for years so over the past couple of years Trent has searched for another and wound up picking up 4. one is 7ft, another is 7'6 and i think the other 2 are about 7'8. the 7'6 is great. it has green resin tint and is the same double ended shape as mine just a little shorter. this is the one he rode with me a few mornings ago.

the waves were small but we were having a ball rising and falling and drawing them round trying to be in the right spot for the rebuilding wall at each new section. some of the best moments were getting consecutive waves and then walking up the beach to the point together ready to paddle out again.

now we are home and we are all a little sad to have to surf short waves, although the extra juice the waves around here produce is always welcome.

unfortunately we all spent the time we had available in the water rather than taking pictures so i have zero action shots to show. i also have zero board shots to show but will try and return later to add one of our Dales together...

spending time with our little family (wife and baby) in such beautiful surrounds was amazing too. i can't wait to do it all again.